Walk down any Indian high street and you will see the change up close. The family-run kirana store still sells rice, soap and biscuits, but a few doors down sits an air-conditioned supermarket, a branded apparel store, and a quick-commerce dark store fulfilling orders in ten minutes. This coexistence captures the retail story perfectly: a sector that was once almost entirely unorganized and fragmented has, within a generation, become one of the most dynamic and closely watched markets in the world. Understanding how this shift happened, and where it is heading, is essential for anyone studying buying, merchandising or modern retail operations.

Table of Contents

The rise of organized retail

For most of the twentieth century, retail in India meant small, owner-operated outlets. Kirana stores, weekly haats, standalone chemists and cloth merchants dominated the landscape. There were millions of these shops, but almost no chains, no standardized pricing, and very little corporate capital. This is what economists mean by an unorganized retail sector: highly fragmented, informal, and difficult to measure.

That picture has changed dramatically. India is now the world’s third-largest retail market, with the sector contributing over 10% to the country’s GDP and employing close to 8% of the workforce. The numbers are striking. A joint Deloitte and FICCI report valued the retail and consumer sector at roughly US$1.06 trillion and projected it to nearly double to US$1.93 trillion by 2030. To put the scale of change in perspective, the entire retail turnover two decades ago was a small fraction of today’s market.

What really matters for students of merchandising, though, is not just the total size but the rising share of organized retail: chains of supermarkets, hypermarkets, department stores and specialty formats run by professional companies with structured buying systems. Organized retail still accounts for a minority of the total market, but it is growing fast and is expected to capture more than 35% of the market by 2030. This is the segment where concepts like assortment planning, open-to-buy budgets, vendor management and category management actually come to life.

From kirana counters to corporate chains

The evolution happened in stages. Through the 1990s and early 2000s, pure-play retailers and manufacturers began opening their own outlets as they recognized the size of the opportunity. The next phase saw large-scale expansion into food and general merchandise, and a steady push beyond the big metros into the top 100 cities. A major accelerant was policy reform: the government progressively liberalized Foreign Direct Investment (FDI), eventually allowing up to 100% FDI in single-brand retail and 51% in multi-brand retail, which brought in global capital, formats and supply-chain know-how.

The result is a market that increasingly resembles those in developed economies, with robust chains of supermarkets and hypermarkets sitting alongside traditional trade. More recently, the lines between physical and digital have blurred. A KPMG analysis notes that modern trade has been growing at roughly twice the pace of traditional trade, while a wave of omnichannel and “phygital” models now connects in-store experiences with online ordering.

Why fashion leads the organized retail story

If you look at which category drove organized retail in its early years, the answer is consistent across most countries: fashion. India has followed the same global pattern, where apparel and fashion lead the early stages of organized retail development before other categories catch up. There are sound commercial reasons for this. Fashion carries higher margins than groceries, items are easy to brand and display, and shoppers are willing to pay a premium for variety, fit and aspiration, which makes it a natural fit for malls and branded stores.

The category remains a heavyweight. The India fashion retail market was valued at roughly US$115 billion in 2025 and is projected to keep growing through the early 2030s, powered by branded ethnic, western and fusion wear. Crucially, organized retail has penetrated this category far faster than others. The organized share of apparel and accessories rose from about 25% in 2018 to around 40% in 2025, with names like Westside, Lifestyle, Shoppers Stop and Central anchoring this growth.

What the fashion lead means for buyers

For a merchandising student, fashion is where buying decisions are most demanding. Trends move quickly, seasonality is sharp, and the cost of getting an assortment wrong, through markdowns or dead stock, is high. Women’s apparel now leads consumption, driven partly by rising female workforce participation and strong ethnic-wear demand from smaller cities. This forces buyers to balance fashion-forward ranges with reliable core lines, and to manage shorter buying cycles than they would in food or staples.

It is also worth noting how the channel mix is shifting. Online and omnichannel formats are now the fastest-growing route to market for fashion, which means buyers increasingly plan assortments not just for physical shelves but for digital catalogues, marketplace listings and quick-commerce delivery as well.

Shifting consumer spending patterns

Fashion may have led the way, but it is no longer alone. Categories such as Food and Grocery and consumer durables are now following the same path into organized retail. The reason is simple: the Indian consumer’s disposable income is rising, and so are aspirations. As households move up the income ladder, a larger share of their spending shifts from bare essentials toward branded products, better-quality groceries, electronics and lifestyle goods.

This is most visible in the rise of private final consumption expenditure, which the latest estimates place at over 60% of India’s GDP. When the majority of national output is being consumed domestically, retail becomes the front line of the economy, and merchandising decisions begin to shape what millions of people buy every day.

The Bharat surge: smaller towns lead the way

Perhaps the most important development for the next decade is geographic. Growth is no longer concentrated in the big metros. It is increasingly coming from Tier 2 and Tier 3 cities, the smaller towns with populations in the range of five to ten lakhs that were once seen as conservative, cautious markets. Analysts have begun calling this the “Bharat surge”, with one Business Standard report describing 2025 as a year in which smaller cities did not just participate in growth but actively led it.

The data backs this up. Festive-season spending insights for 2025 showed Tier 3 cities recording a sharp jump in digital payments for watches and jewellery and a strong rise in grocery and supermarket spending, with Tier 2 cities posting similar momentum across jewellery and grocery categories. Behind these figures lie three connected drivers: rising disposable incomes that bring premium categories within reach, digital platforms and creators that help shoppers discover new brands, and improved infrastructure such as airport connectivity that draws retailers to these towns.

The aspirational shift also changes attitudes toward money. Consumers in smaller cities show lesser aversion to credit than earlier generations did. The everyday use of digital payments, EMIs, credit cards and buy-now-pay-later options has normalized borrowing for retail purchases, which in turn supports spending on higher-value goods like durables and fashion. One report estimates that India could add nearly 100 million new consumers to branded and organised retail by 2030, with a disproportionate share emerging from these smaller towns.

What is driving the momentum

Pulling these threads together, a few structural forces explain why the retail scenario keeps evolving. A young, growing population and an expanding middle class are enlarging the base of consumers who can afford branded goods. Rapid urbanization and digital adoption, including very high smartphone and UPI penetration, are reshaping how and where people shop. Policy moves such as GST rationalization and income-tax relief are improving price transparency and putting more money in consumers’ hands. And foreign investment continues to bring global formats and supply-chain discipline into the market.

For anyone working in buying and merchandising, the implication is clear. The skills that matter, accurate demand forecasting, tight assortment planning, smart pricing and inventory control, are exactly the capabilities that organized retailers need as they expand into new categories and new towns. The market is no longer just growing; it is becoming more structured, more data-driven and more competitive, and that is precisely the environment where good merchandising creates a real edge.

What do you think? If organized retail keeps spreading into Tier 2 and Tier 3 towns, how should a buyer adapt an assortment that works in a metro to suit a smaller city with different tastes and price sensitivities? And as digital and physical retail merge, which category do you think will be the next “fashion”, the one that pulls the most new shoppers into organized retail?

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References
  1. https://www.ibef.org/industry/retail-india
  2. https://www.deloitte.com/in/en/about/press-room/india-s-us-1-06-trillion-retail-sector-is-set-to-reach-1-93-trillion-by-2030.html
  3. https://assets.kpmg.com/content/dam/kpmgsites/in/pdf/2025/07/the-indian-retail-sector-q4fy25.pdf
  4. https://marketresearchoutlook.com/research-report/india-fashion-retail-market/
  5. https://www.statista.com/statistics/1043957/india-organized-apparel-and-accessories-retail-market-penetration-rate/
  6. https://www.business-standard.com/industry/news/indian-retail-eyes-strong-growth-as-demand-shifts-to-tier-ii-iii-cities-125122500237_1.html
  7. https://www.indianretailer.com/article/retail-business/future-retail/how-indias-tier-ii-iii-are-powering-next-phase-retail
  8. https://india.entrepreneur.com/news-and-trends/indias-fastest-consumer-growth-is-coming-from-tier-2-and-3/500057

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Buying and Merchandising – II

1 The Process of Retail Merchandising

  1. Concept of Merchandising
  2. Key Elements of Merchandising
  3. Process of Merchandising
  4. Role of Merchandiser in Historical Times
  5. Role of Merchandiser in an Export Business
  6. Role of Merchandiser in a Retail Business
  7. Merchandising Philosophy
  8. Merchandise Types
  9. Merchandise Classification/Hierarchy

2 The Process of Buying

  1. Objectives of Buying Process
  2. Role of Buying Function
  3. Organizational Buying
  4. Buying Behaviour of Retailers
  5. Buying Behaviour Model
  6. Responsibilities of a Buyer
  7. Characteristics of a Buyer

3 Margins and Profitability

  1. Relationship Among Basic Factors
  2. Gross Margin
  3. Operating Profit
  4. Basic Profit Factors

4 Mark-Ups- A Merchandising Tool

  1. Importance of Mark-Ups
  2. Calculating Mark-Up and Percentages
  3. Method of Calculating Mark-Up Percent Based on Retail Price
  4. Method of Calculating Mark-Up on Cost Price
  5. Comparison of Mark-Up on Retail Price with Mark Up on Cost Price
  6. Calculating the Unknown Factor When the Other Two Factors are Known
  7. Planned Mark-Up Goals
  8. Calculation of Mark-Ups
  9. Calculating Mark-Up Percent on Balance Quantities to be Bought for Achieving Targeted Mark-Up Percent
  10. To Achieve the Average Cost Value When Retail and Mark-Up Percent are Known
  11. To Find the Average Retail Price When Cost Amount and Mark-Up Percent are Known
  12. Initial Mark-Up
  13. Maintained Mark-Up
  14. Cumulative Mark-Up

5 Retail Pricing and Markdowns

  1. Importance of Pricing in Retail
  2. Factors Affecting Retail Pricing
  3. Importance of Markdowns
  4. Calculation of Markdown Value and Percentages
  5. Determination of Net Markdowns
  6. Calculation of Discounts and Reductions

6 Stock Management

  1. Calculation of Book Inventory
  2. Calculation of Shortages
  3. Retail Method of Inventory Valuation (RMI)
  4. Cost Method of Inventory Valuation
  5. RMI Issues
  6. Merits and De-Merits of RMI
  7. Determining the Inventory at the Front Level
  8. Stock to be Maintained at the Back-End

7 Preparing a Merchandise Plan

  1. Format for the Merchandise Plan
  2. Planning Sales for the Current Period
  3. Planning Stocks on the Floor
  4. Stock Turnover or Sales to Stock Ratio
  5. Basic Stock Method
  6. Week’s Supply Method
  7. Stock to Sales Ratio
  8. Planning Reductions
  9. Finalisation of the Merchandise Plan

8 Open to Buy and Unit Planning

  1. Figuring Open to Buy
  2. Unit Planning
  3. Reorder Quantities
  4. Format for Replenishments and Placing Orders
  5. Format to Capture the Sales and Stock Feedback
  6. System of Replenishment
  7. Online Inventory

9 Range Planning and Product Development

  1. Identification of Range Needs
  2. Range Board
  3. Study of Competitors
  4. Market Information
  5. Core and Fashion Ranges
  6. Product Development versus Product Sourcing
  7. Product Development

10 Presenting the Product

  1. Visual Merchandising from a Buyer’s Perspective
  2. Communicating Ideal Presentation Standards
  3. Methods of Presentation
  4. Space Efficiency
  5. Lay-out and Adjacencies

11 Merchandising Performance Parameters

  1. Understanding Various Parameters at the Store Level
  2. Sales Percentages – Comparative Analysis
  3. Productivity Measures – SPF
  4. SPF as a Planning Measure
  5. Sales per Transaction
  6. Sales per Employee

12 Performance Reports

  1. Gross Margin Return on Inventory
  2. Use of Sales Curves
  3. Calculation of Brand and Store Potential Index

13 Application of Buying and Merchandising in a Grocery Retail Store

  1. Retail Scenario in India
  2. Food and Grocery Scenario in the International Market
  3. Big Bazaar – The Hyper Market Chain
  4. Case Study: Savla Store

14 Application of Buying and Merchandising to Apparel Retail Operation

  1. Retail Industry – Organized versus Traditional Sectors
  2. Shopper’s Stop
  3. Case Study: Cutie – The Kids Wear Brand