Walk into any large retail store today and you will find shelves stacked with the store’s own brands sitting right next to national names. These store-owned products do not appear by accident. Behind each one lies a structured process called product development, where a retailer decides what to make, who will manufacture it, how much it will cost, and how it will reach the shelf. This process is the backbone of private label and own-brand strategy, and it is growing fast. A recent industry report found that 52% of Indian consumers chose private label products in 2025, with 70% saying these in-house brands now match or beat branded quality. For any merchandising team, understanding the steps of product development is the difference between a profitable exclusive line and an expensive mistake.

Table of Contents

Why product development matters for retailers

Product development gives a retailer control. Instead of simply reselling what suppliers offer, the retailer designs a product to its own specifications and sells it under its own brand. This brings higher margins, fills gaps that branded suppliers ignore, and creates exclusivity that competitors cannot copy easily. The results are visible across the Indian market. BigBasket reported that 35 to 40% of its FY24 sales came from private labels like Fresho and BB Royal, while DMart’s private label arm crossed INR 3,322 crore in FY25. Reliance Retail runs brands such as Good Life and Enzo across groceries and household categories. These numbers exist because each product moved through a disciplined development cycle. The steps below explain that cycle in order.

Step 1: Sales analysis to identify products for development

Every product line starts with data, not a hunch. The merchandising team studies research from trade associations, sales trends of the brands already selling in the store, and the performance of specific product categories. The goal is to spot where demand is growing and where the retailer can add its own version profitably.

What the data reveals

Teams analyse growth percentages to see which categories are expanding, sales volumes to judge whether a product can support its own brand, sub-product variations to find specific gaps, and price ranges to understand where customers are spending. A category growing quickly with no strong store-brand presence is an obvious candidate for development.

Looking beyond your own shelves

Internal sales data is only half the picture. Teams visit competing stores to see what rivals stock, attend trade exhibitions to spot emerging products, and sometimes study foreign markets for ideas that have not yet reached India. Analysing products that already sell well in your own store is one of the most reliable ways to uncover private-label alternatives with proven demand. This combined research reveals which products have real potential for development and future growth.

Step 2: Briefing the design development team

Once a product is chosen, the merchandising team prepares a detailed brief for the designers. A vague brief produces a vague product. The more precise the specifications, the smoother the rest of the process runs. As product design experts note, a well-defined brief acts as the master guide that aligns the team and the manufacturing partner from day one.

What goes into a complete brief

A strong design brief covers several areas. It specifies the material type, such as pure cotton or a blended fabric, and the number of products and sub-products in the range. It lists special features like laces or embroidery, the intended price points, and the full size specifications. The brief also explains the strategic fit, meaning how the new product sits within the existing range, its function, and how it should coordinate with other products the store already sells.

Practical details designers must know

Beyond the product itself, the brief addresses how it will be presented and made. This includes the display fixtures the product will sit on, the packaging requirements, and the manufacturing conditions such as minimum order quantities and whether a particular print is feasible. Finally, the brief states the type of drawings needed, whether simple technical sketches or detailed graphic renderings. Clear instructions here prevent expensive rework later.

Step 3: Briefing the manufacturer and studying supplier capability

With a design in hand, the retailer approaches manufacturers. How this works depends on the supplier. Some suppliers have their own design teams, in which case the retailer simply conveys all the product details and lets the supplier execute. Others are pure manufacturing units that need more guidance.

The feasibility study comes first

For a manufacturing-only supplier, the team conducts a feasibility study before sharing the full design. This study covers the time needed for production, the cost involved, the processes required, the materials available, and the minimum batch sizes. Only after confirming feasibility does the team explain the core design elements. This order protects the retailer from committing to a partner who cannot deliver.

Choosing the right supplier

Supplier selection is one of the most critical decisions in the entire process. A wrong choice causes delays and compromises quality, both of which damage the brand. Industry guidance stresses that finding a manufacturer who can produce the product to your exact specifications is essential to maintaining standards. Requesting trial samples from shortlisted suppliers is a practical way to compare quality and reliability before committing to a full order.

Step 4: Time factor and cost effectiveness with amortisation

Product development runs on a clock and a budget. One of the first strategic choices is whether to import the product cheaply with a long lead time or manufacture it locally at a higher cost but faster. The launch timeline decides this. If a product needs to hit shelves for a festival season, local manufacturing may be worth the extra cost. If there is time to spare, importing can lower the unit price.

Planning months ahead

Because of these lead times, many retailers begin product development 6 to 12 months before the planned launch. The development cost is then weighed against the sales plan to check whether the product will earn back what it costs to create.

How amortisation spreads the cost

When a product has a long life cycle, the retailer spreads, or amortises, the development cost over the expected sales volume. The logic is simple. Suppose development costs Rs 2,00,000 and the retailer expects to sell 1,00,000 pieces. Dividing the cost by the volume gives Rs 2 added to each product’s cost. The larger the expected volume, the smaller this per-unit burden becomes, which is why high-volume products absorb development costs comfortably while low-volume products may not.

Step 5: Product sampling, market testing, and specifications

Before committing to full production, the retailer tests the product. Sampling is the safest way to catch problems early. Where possible, the team arranges sampling before production begins. If that is not feasible, they at least ask the supplier for a production sample to inspect.

Testing in the market

Some retailers go further and run a market test by launching the product in a few selected stores. This lowers investment risk because the retailer commits to a small batch first. The trade-off is that small batches raise the per-unit cost, and a visible market test can alert competitors who may copy the idea. Testing before a wider release is widely recommended to ensure products meet established standards and expectations before scaling up.

Locking down specifications and quality checks

Throughout this stage, the retailer maintains written, signed product specifications agreed with the supplier. A signed specification protects both sides if a dispute arises over quality or measurements. Regular quality checks by independent certifying bodies keep output consistent and build consumer confidence. In India, the Bureau of Indian Standards offers third-party assurance of quality, safety, and reliability, and the familiar ISI mark signals to customers that a product meets the relevant Indian Standard. For many product categories such as textiles, electronics, and footwear, this kind of certification is not just reassurance but a legal requirement.

Packaging is the last step in development but should be considered from the very start. Innovative packaging boosts sales and strengthens how a product is positioned on the shelf. If packaging development is substantial, its cost can be amortised over sales volume just like the product itself. This is why the design team must think about packaging early, so the product presents well in-store rather than looking like an afterthought.

Packaging in India is not a free-for-all. Every pre-packaged product sold at retail must follow the Legal Metrology (Packaged Commodities) Rules, 2011, framed under the Legal Metrology Act, 2009. These rules require each package to carry mandatory declarations on its principal display panel. The required information includes the name and address of the manufacturer, packer, or importer, the generic name of the commodity, the net quantity, the manufacturing date, the maximum retail price inclusive of all taxes, and a consumer complaint contact. Imported products must also state the country of origin.

Ignoring these rules creates serious complications later. Non-compliant packages can be seized, and the law provides for monetary fines. Food products carry additional FSSAI requirements, and categories like cosmetics and electronics have their own rules. Building these requirements into the packaging design from the beginning avoids costly redesigns and protects the brand’s reputation. Right decision-making across all six steps gives the retailer higher returns, largely because of the inherent advantage of selling an exclusive product that no competitor can stock.

Bringing the steps together

Product development is a sequence where each step depends on the one before it. Sales analysis points to the right product. A clear brief shapes the design. A capable supplier turns the design into reality. Smart cost and time planning keeps it profitable. Sampling and testing reduce risk. Packaging and legal compliance finish the job. Skipping any step weakens the result. When the full cycle is followed with discipline, the payoff is a profitable, exclusive product line, which explains why retailers from DMart to Reliance keep expanding their own brands year after year.

What do you think? If you were developing a store brand in a crowded category, would you prioritise a faster local launch at higher cost or a cheaper imported product with a longer lead time? And how much risk is worth taking on a market test when competitors might copy your idea before the full launch?

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References
  1. https://www.ibef.org/industry/retail-india
  2. https://www.entrepreneur.com/en-in/news-and-trends/indias-retail-sector-witnesses-rising-demand-for-private/498673
  3. https://www.practicalecommerce.com/launch-your-own-private-label-brand
  4. https://www.jacksonhedden.com/iterate/private-label-product-design-guide
  5. https://www.absolutelyworldclass.com/the-private-label-process-how-to-better-serve-your-business/
  6. https://gembah.com/blog/private-label-manufacturing/
  7. https://www.bis.gov.in/product-certification/products-under-compulsory-certification/
  8. https://acuitylaw.co.in/faqs/legal-metrology-and-packaged-commodities/
  9. https://www.taxtmi.com/article/detailed?id=14840

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Buying and Merchandising – II

1 The Process of Retail Merchandising

  1. Concept of Merchandising
  2. Key Elements of Merchandising
  3. Process of Merchandising
  4. Role of Merchandiser in Historical Times
  5. Role of Merchandiser in an Export Business
  6. Role of Merchandiser in a Retail Business
  7. Merchandising Philosophy
  8. Merchandise Types
  9. Merchandise Classification/Hierarchy

2 The Process of Buying

  1. Objectives of Buying Process
  2. Role of Buying Function
  3. Organizational Buying
  4. Buying Behaviour of Retailers
  5. Buying Behaviour Model
  6. Responsibilities of a Buyer
  7. Characteristics of a Buyer

3 Margins and Profitability

  1. Relationship Among Basic Factors
  2. Gross Margin
  3. Operating Profit
  4. Basic Profit Factors

4 Mark-Ups- A Merchandising Tool

  1. Importance of Mark-Ups
  2. Calculating Mark-Up and Percentages
  3. Method of Calculating Mark-Up Percent Based on Retail Price
  4. Method of Calculating Mark-Up on Cost Price
  5. Comparison of Mark-Up on Retail Price with Mark Up on Cost Price
  6. Calculating the Unknown Factor When the Other Two Factors are Known
  7. Planned Mark-Up Goals
  8. Calculation of Mark-Ups
  9. Calculating Mark-Up Percent on Balance Quantities to be Bought for Achieving Targeted Mark-Up Percent
  10. To Achieve the Average Cost Value When Retail and Mark-Up Percent are Known
  11. To Find the Average Retail Price When Cost Amount and Mark-Up Percent are Known
  12. Initial Mark-Up
  13. Maintained Mark-Up
  14. Cumulative Mark-Up

5 Retail Pricing and Markdowns

  1. Importance of Pricing in Retail
  2. Factors Affecting Retail Pricing
  3. Importance of Markdowns
  4. Calculation of Markdown Value and Percentages
  5. Determination of Net Markdowns
  6. Calculation of Discounts and Reductions

6 Stock Management

  1. Calculation of Book Inventory
  2. Calculation of Shortages
  3. Retail Method of Inventory Valuation (RMI)
  4. Cost Method of Inventory Valuation
  5. RMI Issues
  6. Merits and De-Merits of RMI
  7. Determining the Inventory at the Front Level
  8. Stock to be Maintained at the Back-End

7 Preparing a Merchandise Plan

  1. Format for the Merchandise Plan
  2. Planning Sales for the Current Period
  3. Planning Stocks on the Floor
  4. Stock Turnover or Sales to Stock Ratio
  5. Basic Stock Method
  6. Week’s Supply Method
  7. Stock to Sales Ratio
  8. Planning Reductions
  9. Finalisation of the Merchandise Plan

8 Open to Buy and Unit Planning

  1. Figuring Open to Buy
  2. Unit Planning
  3. Reorder Quantities
  4. Format for Replenishments and Placing Orders
  5. Format to Capture the Sales and Stock Feedback
  6. System of Replenishment
  7. Online Inventory

9 Range Planning and Product Development

  1. Identification of Range Needs
  2. Range Board
  3. Study of Competitors
  4. Market Information
  5. Core and Fashion Ranges
  6. Product Development versus Product Sourcing
  7. Product Development

10 Presenting the Product

  1. Visual Merchandising from a Buyer’s Perspective
  2. Communicating Ideal Presentation Standards
  3. Methods of Presentation
  4. Space Efficiency
  5. Lay-out and Adjacencies

11 Merchandising Performance Parameters

  1. Understanding Various Parameters at the Store Level
  2. Sales Percentages – Comparative Analysis
  3. Productivity Measures – SPF
  4. SPF as a Planning Measure
  5. Sales per Transaction
  6. Sales per Employee

12 Performance Reports

  1. Gross Margin Return on Inventory
  2. Use of Sales Curves
  3. Calculation of Brand and Store Potential Index

13 Application of Buying and Merchandising in a Grocery Retail Store

  1. Retail Scenario in India
  2. Food and Grocery Scenario in the International Market
  3. Big Bazaar – The Hyper Market Chain
  4. Case Study: Savla Store

14 Application of Buying and Merchandising to Apparel Retail Operation

  1. Retail Industry – Organized versus Traditional Sectors
  2. Shopper’s Stop
  3. Case Study: Cutie – The Kids Wear Brand